Second Ride Conversion Kit SR24 for Simson Vogelserie SR4-2, SR4-2/1, SR4-4
Please keep your packaging!
To save resources, in case a return shipment is ever necessary!
Requirements
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Scope of Delivery
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M5x Motor Mounting
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Required Tools
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Before you start the conversion
The purpose of the conversion kit is to convert the above-mentioned Simson models in accordance with this assembly manual, and to use them on public roads in accordance with the operating manual. Please understand that during the development of this kit, we followed the original condition of the mentioned Simson models. If your vehicle contains non-original components, or if original parts have been altered due to accident, wear, or intentional modifications, we cannot guarantee that the conversion kit will function properly and safely, or that it can be installed at all. If you are unsure about your vehicle, feel free to contact us.
The document provided to you, “Conversion Kit SR24 - SR50, SR80 - Assembly and Operating Manual,” is supplied by Second Ride GmbH and serves as a supplement to the original manufacturer’s operating manual. Both documents are to be considered as one unit. They belong together directly, whereby the explanations for the combustion engine can be disregarded.
Please read this document completely and carefully before you begin the conversion and your first ride. You will find warnings and notices, information and advice, emergency procedures, and other important notes regarding your vehicle. Failure to follow the instructions can result in minor or serious injury, or even life-threatening danger. It may also reduce the performance of the vehicle. Please also read the warnings and notices next to the symbols carefully, especially those related to the high-voltage system. Only then can proper installation of the conversion kit and proper use of the vehicle be ensured. Failure to follow these warnings and notices means you knowingly accept personal injury and/or vehicle damage.
Please note that the disposal of onboard batteries, transmission oil, and fuel-oil mixtures must not be done with household waste, wastewater, or in the environment. Please inform yourself about proper disposal of these substances. Old batteries may contain harmful substances that, if stored or disposed of improperly, can harm the environment or health. However, batteries also contain valuable raw materials such as iron, zinc, manganese, or nickel that can be recycled. Please return the seat bench battery to us after use. To ensure safe transport, we recommend using the original packaging. In any case, please contact us.
Some fluids used in vehicles (battery acid, battery coolant, brake fluid, fuel, windshield washer fluid, etc.) are toxic and must not be inhaled, swallowed, or come into contact with open wounds. For your safety, always read and follow the instructions printed on the fluid containers, and observe the legally prescribed handling of these substances.
All technical data and descriptions contained herein were up to date at the time of printing. However, since continuous improvement is one of our main goals, we reserve the right to make changes to the products at any time. If you notice any errors or omissions in this document, please be sure to post them in the Discord channel (see footnote).
Disassembly
Before you begin disassembly, remove the vehicle’s battery to avoid short circuits.
1. Disassembly: Engine Connections
First, disconnect all electrical and mechanical connections on the engine. Unscrew the two side panels. Make sure the fuel tap is closed and pull the hose off the carburetor. You can now drain the remaining fuel in the tank into a suitable container (e.g., a fuel canister) using the hose. Loosen the clamp of the intake boot and pull it off the carburetor. Unscrew the throttle and starter cables from the carburetor, unhook the clutch cable from the mount on the engine block, and unscrew the speedometer cable. Then remove the spark plug cap and the ground cable from the engine block. Disconnect the cables coming from the alternator from the vehicle.
2. Exhaust
Now only the exhaust should still be attached to the engine. It is fastened to the engine with a large nut that can be removed with a pipe wrench or hook wrench.
Tip
If the exhaust nut won’t come loose, you can tap it loose by striking the notches of the nut with an old flat screwdriver and a hammer (preferably rubber or wooden).
The other fastening of the exhaust is located at the rear in the form of a clamp, which can be opened by removing the screw.
3. Chain
Before the engine can be removed, the chain must be taken off the drive sprocket. First, remove the alternator cover from the engine. Then loosen both the nut of the rear axle on the right and the axle bolt on the left. A few turns are enough, as the rear wheel only needs to be moved. You can now screw the small nuts of the chain tensioners all the way to the back, to the end of the thread. Now it should be possible to push the rear wheel forward. It is now time to lift the greasy chain off the drive sprocket. We included disposable gloves in the package for this purpose.
Tip
If the moped is on the center stand, you can lift it slightly using the lifting handle and tap the rear wheel forward with your foot so it moves 1–2 cm.
4. Engine
After all this preparation, the engine is now ready to be removed. It is fastened with a long M8 bolt in the engine mounting plates (10) and another M8 bolt in the cylinder head.
It can be a bit tricky to lift the engine out. Assistance from a second person can be very helpful at this point. Loosen the nuts and try to pull the bolts out of the holes. It helps to slightly lift the engine. Now you can remove it from its mount. Congratulations! Your Simson is no longer a combustion vehicle!
5. Handlebar Attachments
At the handlebar, you can now remove the left-hand lever as well as the clutch and starter/choke cables.
6. Seat Bench
To install our new seat bench, you must first remove the original one. It is attached to the folding hinge with two screws. You can also remove the original seat bench lock.
Et voila! Your moped is now ready for the electric conversion kit.
Assembly of the Conversion Kit
For the assembly of the conversion kit, only screws of size M4, M5, M6, and M8 are used. To ensure the parts hold as intended, you should use the following torque values:
M4: 2.9 Nm
M5: 5.7 Nm
M6: 9.8 Nm
M8: 24 Nm
1. Drive Module Installation
Before you can install the drive module into your Vogel, you must first loosen the two upper pan head screws that fasten the controller to the drive module at the top front. Then take the two M6x90 screws included in the kit and screw them into the freed holes, leaving a thread protrusion of about 10 mm.
Now take the components listed in the delivery contents under “M5x Motor Mounting” and assemble them as shown in the figure. Screw the M8 nut only 2–3 full turns onto the M8x70 hex bolt. Leave out the two M6 nuts for now and set the pre-assembled M5x motor mount aside.
The drive module is mounted in the same way as the original engine. Again, it is advisable to get help from another person. Place the drive module under the vehicle first and route the black cable upward as shown in the picture, where the seat bench will later be. Lift the drive module and guide it between the engine mounting plates (10).
The supplied M8x100 hex bolt is for the upper hole in the engine mounting plates. Using a ratchet with extension and a 13mm socket, and a 13mm open-end wrench for counterholding, tighten the nut so that the drive module can still rotate around the bolt’s axis. Now you can rest the drive module in the engine mount.
Next, take the pre-assembled M5x motor mount and install it as shown in the figure, ensuring that the thick washer is inside the upper engine mounting plates and the thinner ones are outside. Depending on the condition of the original mounting plates, the inner washer may be omitted.
Now push the drive module upward so that the threaded ends of the controller screws fit into the two lower holes of the M5x motor mount. Secure the M5x motor mount to the drive module with the M6 nuts.
As the last step, tighten the two M8 nuts of the rear and upper engine mount firmly. Use a ratchet with extension, 13mm socket, and a 13mm open-end wrench for counterholding.
2. Chain
Now remove the chain guard from the drive module by loosening the three M4 screws and set everything aside for later. Time to put on the gloves again! Locate the chain lock on the installed chain and open it. To do this, simply rotate the rear wheel in the air until the chain link with the chain lock appears. The chain lock can be opened with needle-nose pliers or a flat-head screwdriver.
Warning! Do not simply pull the chain out of the chain tube once you’ve opened it. You can use the old chain to easily install the new one. Connect the new chain to the old chain with the new chain lock at one end and pull the old chain from the other end until the chain lock reappears. Now open the chain lock again, lay the chain over the drive sprocket of the drive module, and close it again. Now you can pull the rear wheel back again and turn the chain tensioner nuts forward for a rough pre-adjustment. Begin fine adjustment with the right chain tensioner: turn the nut forward until the chain in the tube has only 2 cm of vertical play. You can test this by pressing the chain tube at its thinnest point between thumb and forefinger and making an up-and-down movement.
When you are satisfied with the chain tension, adjust the other chain tensioner. With this chain tensioner, you set the so-called wheel alignment. It sounds more complicated than it is. Simply make sure that both wheels are in line. You can use a long straight board for this, or crouch three steps behind the moped and sight the front wheel over the rear wheel with one eye.
Check the chain tension again and correct if necessary. Once both chain tensioners are properly adjusted, tighten the rear axle and nut again. Now you just need to reattach our chain guard. At this point, the supplied 2x chain tube adapters must be used. Press the chain tube adapters, narrower end first, into the chain tubes until they click into place. Now you can mount the chain tube.
3. Electrical System
You can fasten the thick cable from the drive module up to the seat bench with cable ties.
The onboard system (lights and horn) is powered by a voltage converter in the drive module. A black cable with a white 2-pin connector comes out from under the drive module. Route this to the top of the engine. We have provided you with two red-black cables. Connect the cable with white 2-pin connectors on both ends to the white 2-pin connector from the drive module. At the other end, connect the second cable, which has a matching white connector at one end and several flat connectors and a ring terminal at the other.
To connect the flat connectors, you need to remove the lamp mask using the two Phillips screws. To make plugging in easier, it helps to remove the ignition switch from its mount. Pry off the ignition switch cover and remove the 3 screws holding the ignition switch. This gives you more room to access the flat connectors.
Now connect the red wires of the Second Ride cable to the ignition switch at the following contacts:
59, 59B, 30, unmarked triple connector
You can connect the black wire to the ground point in the lamp housing. You no longer need to use a fuse, since the power supply automatically shuts off in case of a short circuit until it is resolved.
Under this link you’ll find the wiring diagram suitable for your moped. It shows which components can be removed. Don’t worry about making a mistake: our drive module has short-circuit protection, so the light will simply not turn on until the error is corrected.
If your vehicle is still equipped with 6V electrics, you must replace all bulbs, the flasher relay, and possibly the horn with 12V components. Now is the right time to replace the headlight bulb and the dashboard illumination bulb at the ignition switch.
Good to know
The 12V bulbs are significantly brighter than the 6V versions, and the horn is louder with 12V as well. After conversion, you’ll be safer on the road.
Now you can reinstall the ignition switch and the lamp mask, and set the original ignition switch to the position with the headlight or “II” symbol (the third clockwise).
Finally, you need to connect our brake contact cable. With this cable, the drive module detects whether you are pressing the rear brake (or front brake if you have a brake contact there). As long as the brake is pressed, it is no longer possible to accelerate. The package includes an 80cm long black cable with a white connector housing at one end and a flat connector (22) at the other. Connect the white connector to the white connector at the bottom of the drive module and route the cable along the swingarm to the brake contact (24) at the rear wheel. Remove the original brake contact cable (23), plug in ours, and connect the original to the extra tab coming off our cable. We also included a brake tab for screwing on, in case yours is too corroded or missing entirely.
We included this feature because there is no clutch anymore, and therefore no way to disengage power transmission if an issue with throttle response occurs. For example, the throttle grip could get stuck in the open position. Such a scenario is no longer dangerous, since you only need to press the brake to cut motor power.
4. Instruments
Now screw the speedometer cable onto the newly installed chain guard. The plastic thread for this is in the same place as on the previously removed combustion engine. This way, your original speedometer will continue to work.
The instruments (13) with button (17), charge level indicator (15), and ignition switch (14) must be clamped to the handlebar cover plate using the two instrument holders. Carefully slide the instruments over the plate facing the rider until they stop. Ensure the instruments are aligned straight and that the plastic set screws in the holders have full contact. Now firmly tighten the set screws of the instrument holders. Be careful not to overtighten to avoid damaging the Phillips slots.
Finally, route the cable through the opening between the lamp hood and handlebar tube and guide it to the underside of the drive module. There you can connect it with the matching connector and secure the cable to the frame with cable ties. Both connectors have arrows indicating the correct orientation for plugging them together.
5. Seat Bench
SR4-4 Habicht
Since the Habicht has a relatively long tank, the tank must be pushed as far forward as possible before installing the seat bench. To do this, loosen the tank screw, push the tank as far forward as possible, and while maintaining pressure, tighten the tank screw. Now there should be enough clearance so that the front mount does not collide with your tank.
Next comes the installation of the front and rear mounts that hold your seat bench to the vehicle. First remove the two upper screws of the luggage rack and loosen the lower ones so that the luggage rack sits loosely. Unscrew the rear seat bench support (30) and set it aside.
Now screw the luggage rack bracket upside down onto the luggage rack and lock the screws as shown in the figure below.
Now take the previously set-aside rear seat bench support (30) and screw on the rear mount as shown. Make sure the threaded rods are centered in the large holes. This is important so that your seat bench will later fit properly onto the mounts. When the position is correct, tighten the nuts firmly.
Take the pre-assembled rear mount and loosely screw it using the slotted holes below the luggage rack mounting plates onto the screws of the pre-assembled luggage rack. Now screw the rear seat bench support (30) to the body. Finally, tighten all screw connections firmly.
Before mounting the front mount, take the transparent edge protector and mount it over the front edge of the cutout under the seat bench to protect the paint from the hook of the front mount.
Now take the front mount and the components shown below. Hook the front mount under the front plate of the seat bench cutout while guiding the two threaded bolts through the two front holes of the seat bench support.
Loosely screw the front mount with washers and nuts. Place the seat bench on so that it rests with all rubber pads on the vehicle body and can close properly. Make sure the front mount sits in the lock with as little play as possible, as shown in the figure below.
Carefully lift the seat bench out of the lock without shifting the position of the front mount and tighten it in exactly this position.
Warning
The seat bench does not have a passenger strap. Therefore, it is necessary that you mount the lifting handle on the luggage rack so that your vehicle can still be used for two-up riding.
6. Throttle Cable
If you have an N1 carburetor, you can now screw the throttle cable with piston and carburetor cap onto the drive module (12). If you had a different carburetor type on the combustion engine, the carburetor cap and piston will not fit and you must replace them. Good explanatory videos can be found on the Simson Werkstatt YouTube channel here!
The position of the carburetor needle, or whether it is missing entirely, no longer affects the function of the Bowden cable sensor.
To ensure that turning the throttle grip is properly converted into an electrical signal via the Bowden cable, it is important to insert the carburetor piston (22) correctly into the designated cylinder (23) on the drive module. Rotate the carburetor piston as shown in the picture so that the groove (29) faces the rear tire. Inside the cylinder, on the same side, there is a pin you can feel with your finger. The carburetor piston must be inserted so that the groove slides over the pin. Then screw the carburetor cap (21) onto the cylinder. Make sure the cap is screwed down so far that no gap remains between the cap and the stop.
Now it’s time to adjust the throttle cable. At the top of the throttle cable, there is an adjustment screw. When the throttle grip is turned fully forward (no throttle), there should be just no play in the throttle cable housing. By unscrewing the adjuster, you reduce the play. Later, when the battery is connected, you can check your adjustment:
If you turn the ignition key and nothing happens when you twist the throttle, the screw is turned out too far. If throttle input works and there is no play in the housing, then the setting is just right. You don’t need to worry about the upper stop being incorrect or reducing maximum power, since at full throttle the stop is always the cap, which is the same in every throttle cable setting.
Warning
Be sure to reinstall the rubber cover (20) on the carburetor cap. Otherwise, the sensor could be damaged by rain.
Make sure that the throttle cable and grip have the least possible friction. The throttle grip should snap back completely from the fully open position using only spring force. If this is not the case, it may help to disassemble, clean, and re-grease the throttle grip and/or replace the Bowden cable. It is also possible that the rubber of the throttle grip is rubbing against the clamp piece. In this case, slide the rubber outward on the disassembled throttle grip tube. A video tutorial on throttle grip maintenance can be found on the 2Radgeber YouTube channel.