Second Ride Conversion Kit SR24 for Simson Schwalbe - KR51/2, KR51/1 & KR51
Please keep your packaging!
To save resources in case a return shipment becomes necessary!
Requirements
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Scope of delivery
KR51/2, KR51/1, KR51
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Connecting plate for rubber parts
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KR51/1, KR51
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M5x Motor connection
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Brake cable adapter
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KR51
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Required tools
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Before you begin the conversion
The intended use of the conversion kit is to convert the above-mentioned Simson models according to these assembly instructions, as well as to use them on public roads in accordance with the owner's manual. Please understand that we based the development of the conversion kit on the original condition of the Simson models mentioned. In the case of conversions using non-original components or modifications to the original parts due to an accident, wear, or intentional modifications, we cannot guarantee that the conversion kit will function flawlessly and safely, or that it can be installed at all. If you are unsure about your vehicle, please feel free to contact us.
This document, "Conversion Kit SR24 - Schwalbe - Assembly and Owner's Manual," is provided by Second Ride GmbH and is intended as a supplement to the original manufacturer's owner's manual. Both documents should be viewed as a single unit. They belong together, although the explanations regarding the combustion engine may be disregarded.
Please read this document completely and carefully before beginning the conversion and taking your first drive. It contains warnings and instructions, information and advice, emergency procedures, and other important information about your vehicle. Failure to follow these instructions may result in minor or serious injury or even death. Furthermore, the vehicle's performance may be limited. Please also carefully read the warnings and instructions listed next to the symbols, especially those related to the high-voltage range. This is the only way to ensure proper installation of the conversion kit and proper use of the vehicle. Failure to follow these warnings and instructions will result in personal injury or damage to the vehicle.
Please note that the vehicle electrical system battery, transmission fluid, and fuel-oil mixture must not be disposed of in household waste, wastewater, or the environment. Please inform yourself about the proper disposal of these substances. Used batteries may contain harmful substances that, if not stored or disposed of properly, can harm the environment or health. Batteries also contain important raw materials such as iron, zinc, manganese, and nickel, which can be recycled. Please return the bench battery to us after use. To ensure safe transport, we recommend using the original packaging. Please contact us in any case.
Some fluids used in vehicles (battery acid, battery coolant, brake fluid, fuel, windshield washer fluid, etc.) are toxic and should not be inhaled, swallowed, or brought into contact with open wounds. For your safety, always read and follow the instructions printed on the fluid containers and observe the legally prescribed handling of these substances.
All technical data and descriptions contained herein were current at the time of printing. However, since continuous improvement is one of our main goals, we reserve the right to make changes to our products at any time. If you notice any errors or omissions in this document, please post them in the Discord channel (see footnote).
Disassembly
Before you begin disassembly, remove the vehicle's battery to avoid short circuits.
1. Body
The conversion on the Schwalbe is somewhat more complex than on the S50, S51, and S70 models. This is mainly due to the generous fairing, which makes access to the engine, electrical system, and fuel tank difficult. So, it's best to start by removing the engine tunnel.
Next, it's the hood (1)'s turn. To do this, first remove the seat, including the hinge (5). Now remove the five screws that still hold the hood in place: one screw at the top, centered behind the fuel cap (2), two screws that secure the passenger footrests (3), and two at each of the front, lower corners of the hood (4). To be able to remove the hood, you still need to disconnect the cables leading to the taillight. Near the engine, you should find a 3-pin terminal socket with cables leading to the rear. Disconnect the cables from one side of the socket. The hood can now be lifted off. Once the hood is down, you can remove the tank. This is necessary to route the thick cable from the drive module to the seat later and also gives you a lot more storage space.
2. Engine Connections
Now all electrical and mechanical connections on the engine can be disconnected. Make sure the fuel tap is closed (to the left, facing the direction of travel) and disconnect the hose from the carburetor. If you want, you can also remove the tank at this point. You can now drain the remaining fuel in the tank into a suitable container (e.g., a gas can) using the hose. Loosen the clamp on the intake sleeve and pull it off the carburetor. Unscrew the throttle and starter cable from the carburetor, unhook the clutch cable from the bracket on the engine block, and unscrew the speedometer cable from its bracket. If you have a Schwalbe with manual transmission, also remove the corresponding Bowden cable. Now remove the spark plug connector and the ground cable from the engine block.
If you have a KR51/1 or KR51 with a cable-operated rear brake, unhook the brake cable from the right-hand engine cover. It helps to loosen the cylindrical nut on the rear brake lever on the rear wheel.
3. Instrument cover
KR51/1
Remove the two slotted screws from the silver instrument cover using a slotted screwdriver and remove the metal cover.
KR51/2
In the next step, unscrew the instrument panel and remove the mounting plate (7) from which the control unit, cable connector (8), and fuse holder (9) hang. All cables attached to these can be unplugged. However, it can be helpful to mark which cables are still needed and, if the cable routing is confusing, to note which cable performs which function. Refer to the chapter "Installing the Conversion Kit -> Electrics" for this. The mounting plate with the three mentioned components must be removed to make room for the charge level indicator, the new ignition switch, and the button.
Next, it's the hood (1). To do this, first remove the seat including the hinge (5). Now remove the five screws that still hold the hood in place: one screw at the top, centered behind the fuel cap (2), two screws that secure the passenger footrests (3), and two at each of the front, lower corners of the hood (4). To remove the hood, you'll need to disconnect the cables leading to the taillight. Near the engine, you should find a 3-pin terminal block with cables leading to the rear. Remove the cables from one side of the block. Now you can lift the hood off. Once the hood is down, you can remove the tank. This is necessary to route the thick cable from the drive module to the seat later and also gives you a lot more storage space.
4. Exhaust
Now only the exhaust should be attached to the engine. This is secured to the engine with a large nut, which can be removed with a pipe wrench or a hook wrench.
Tip
If the manifold nut won't come loose, you can use an old flathead screwdriver and a hammer (preferably rubber or wooden) to tap it into the notches in the manifold nut to loosen it.
The other attachment for the exhaust is at the rear in the form of a pipe clamp. This can be opened by removing the screw.
5. Chain
Before the engine can be removed, the chain must be removed from the drive sprocket. First, remove the alternator cover from the engine. Then loosen both the rear axle nut on the right and the axle on the left. A few turns are sufficient here, as the rear wheel only needs to be moved. You can now screw the small chain tensioner nuts all the way back to the end of the thread. You should now be able to slide the rear wheel forward. Now it's time to lift the greasy chain off the drive sprocket. We've included disposable gloves for this in the package.
Tip
With the moped jacked up on the center stand, you can now raise the rear wheel by lifting it on the jack handle and then kick it with your foot so that it moves forward 1-2 cm.
6. Engine
After all this preparatory work, the engine is now ready to be removed. On the KR51/2, it is bolted into the engine mounting plates (10) with two long M8 bolts. On the KR51/1 and KR51, there is only one M8 bolt, the second is located at the top of the cylinder head.
It can be fiddly to lift the engine out. Having a second person help you can be very helpful at this point. Loosen the nuts and try to pull the bolts out of the holes. It helps to lift the engine slightly. Now you can remove it from the storage. Congratulations! Your Simson is no longer a combustion engine!
7. Handlebar Mounting Parts
You can now remove the left hand lever, as well as the clutch and starter/choke Bowden cables, from the handlebars. Et voila! Your moped is now waiting for the electric conversion kit!
Installing the Conversion Kit
When installing the conversion kit, only M4, M5, M6, and M8 screws are used. To ensure that the individual parts are held and screwed tight as intended, you should use the following tightening torques: M4: 2.9 Nm M5: 5.7 Nm M6: 9.8 Nm M8: 24 Nm
1. Drive Module Assembly
KR51/1, KR51
Before you can install the drive module in your Schwalbe, you must loosen the two upper countersunk head screws that connect the controller to the drive module at the top front of the drive module. Now take the two M6x90 screws included in the kit and screw them into the newly exposed holes, creating a thread projection of approximately 10 mm.
Now take the components listed in the scope of delivery under "M5x Motor Mount" and assemble them according to the following illustration. Screw the M8 nut onto the M8x70 hexagon socket head cap screw by only 2-3 full turns. Leave the two M6 nuts and set the pre-assembled M5x motor mount aside.
The drive module is mounted on the vehicle in the same way as the original engine. Here, too, you should get help from another person. First, place the drive module under the vehicle and route the black cable up, as shown in the picture, where the seat will later be. Install the slotted corrugated tube around the cable so that it is protected from the metal edges of the Schwalbe body.
Lift the drive module and guide it between the engine mounting plates (10).
The included M8x100 hexagon socket head screw is for the upper hole in the motor mounting plates. Using a ratchet with an extension piece and a 13mm socket, and a 13mm open-end wrench for locking, tighten the nut until the drive module can still rotate around the screw axis. You can now place the drive module in the motor mount.
Next, take the pre-assembled M5x motor mount and install it as shown in the following figure, ensuring that the three thick washers (red) are inside the Schwalbe motor mounting plates and the thinner washers (yellow) are outside. Depending on the condition of the original retaining plates, these may need to be bent straight.
Now push the drive module upwards so that the upper thread projections of the controller screws fit into the two lower holes of the M5x motor mount. Screw the M5x motor mount to the drive module using the M6 nuts.
As a final step, properly tighten the two M8 nuts on the rear and upper motor mounts. Use a ratchet with an extension, a 13mm socket, and a 13mm open-end wrench for locking.
KR51/2
The drive module is mounted on the vehicle in the same way as the original engine. Here, too, you should get help from another person. First, place the drive module under the vehicle and route the orange/black cable up to where the seat will later be, as shown in the picture. Install the slotted corrugated tube around the cable so that it is protected from the sheet metal edges of the Schwalbe body. Lift the drive module and guide it between the motor mounting plates (10).
The included M8x100 hexagon socket head screw is intended for the upper hole, and the M8x90 hexagon socket head screw is intended for the lower hole. First, insert only the M8x100 through the upper hole in the motor mounting plates to secure the drive module. Now you can insert the M8x90 screw through the lower hole.
Using a ratchet with an extension piece, a 13mm socket, and a 13mm open-end wrench for locking, tighten both screws properly with the included M8 nuts.
2. Chain
Now remove the chain guard from the drive module by loosening the three M4 screws and set everything aside for later. It's time for the gloves again! Find the chain connector on the installed chain and open it. To do this, simply rotate the floating rear wheel until the chain link with the chain connector appears. The chain connector can be opened with pointed pliers or a flat-head screwdriver.
Caution! : Do not simply pull the chain out of the chain tube once you have opened it. You can use the old chain to easily install the new one. Connect the new chain to the new master link at one end of the old chain and then pull on the other end of the old chain until the master link reappears. Now open the master link, place the chain over the drive pinion of the drive module, and close it again. You can now pull the rear wheel back and turn the chain tensioner nuts forward for a rough pre-adjustment. For the fine adjustment, start with the right chain tensioner: Turn the chain tensioner nut forward until the chain in the tube has only 2 cm of play up and down. You can test this by squeezing the chain tube at its thinnest point between your thumb and index finger and making an up-and-down motion.
Once you're satisfied with the chain tension, you can now move on to the other chain tensioner. Using this chain tensioner, you'll adjust the vehicle's toe. It sounds more complicated than it is. Just make sure both wheels are in line. You can use a long, straight board for this, or simply crouch three steps behind the moped and aim for the front wheel with one eye over the rear wheel.
Now check the chain tension again and adjust if necessary. Once both chain tensioners are correctly adjusted, you can tighten the rear axle and nut again. Now all you need to do is screw our chain guard back on. For the KR51/1 and KR51, the two included chain tube adapters must be used. To do this, push the chain tube adapters into the chain tubes with the narrower end first until they click into place. You can now install the chain tube.
KR51/1, KR51 - Brake Cable Adapter
To support the rear brake cable, the brake cable adapter must now be installed. To do this, take the components listed under Scope of delivery > KR51/1, KR51 > Brake cable adapter and mount the brake cable adapter on the right side of the drive module.
Note
For vehicles with an internal brake cable or without an adjustment screw on the rear brake shield, the supplied adjustment screw is screwed into the thread of the brake cable plate instead of the brake cable sleeve, and the brake cable is inserted there. This still allows adjustment of the brake cable.
First, take the clamp and spread it, carefully guide it around the frame tube, and loosely screw the brake cable plate on using the M8 screw, washer, and M8 nut. Next, thread the black brake cable sleeve over the brake cable, then insert the brake cable into the slotted hole in the brake cable plate as shown below. Now lock the brake cable with the spring pin. Now hook the brake cable into the foot brake lever and align the brake cable adapter so that it sits 1 cm to the left of the frame cross member with the stud bolt securing the tunnel cover. Now tighten the M8 screw and nut properly. Now reattach the brake cable to the foot brake lever and tighten the rear brake using the brake cable tensioner on the rear wheel.
Your rear brake should now work again. After completing the conversion, make sure your rear brake is properly adjusted and braking properly.
3. Electrics
You can tie the thick cable on the drive module up to the seat using cable ties. Among the included small parts, you'll find a piece of Velcro with adhesive pads. Stick one pad to the back of the thick connector and the other to a suitable location under the bodywork. The purpose of this is to be able to store the connector in a place protected from rain when the seat is not on the vehicle. Thoroughly clean the area where you want to attach the Velcro fastener beforehand.
The electrical system (lights and horn) is powered by a voltage converter in the drive module. A black cable with a white, 2-pin connector emerges from beneath the drive module. Route this to the top of the motor. We have provided you with two cables (red and black). Connect the cable with the white 2-pin connectors at both ends to the 2-pin white connector from the drive module. At the other end, connect the second cable, which has a matching white connector at one end and several flat receptacles and a ring terminal at the other end.
To connect the flat receptacles, you will need to remove the headlight mask using the two Phillips screws. To connect the flat receptacles, it is advisable to remove the ignition switch from its holder. To do this, pry off the ignition switch cover and remove the three screws holding the ignition switch. This gives you more room to access the flat connectors.
Now connect the red wires of the second ride cable to the ignition switch at the following contacts: 59, 59B, 30, unlabeled triple plug
You can attach the black wire to the ground connection point on the handlebar (16, page 21) on the right below the turn signal switch. You don't need to use a fuse anymore, as the power supply automatically shuts off in the event of a short circuit until the short circuit is cleared.
You can find the wiring diagram for your moped at the following link. It shows which components can be removed. You don't have to worry about doing anything wrong. Our drive module has short-circuit protection, so only the lights won't turn on until you fix the problem.
If your vehicle is still equipped with 6V electrical systems, you will need to replace all bulbs, the flasher unit, and possibly the horn with 12V components. Then it's time to replace the headlight bulb and instrument panel bulb in the ignition switch.
Note
Early KR51 models may have a BA20D bulb socket instead of the typical BA15D. To fit 12V bulbs, you'll need to convert to a BA15D socket.
Interesting to know
The 12V bulbs are significantly brighter than the 6V versions, and the horn is also louder at 12V. After the conversion, you'll be safer on the road.
Now you can reattach the ignition switch and the lamp mask and set the original ignition switch to the position with the headlight or "II" symbol (the third clockwise).
Finally, you need to connect our brake signal cable. This cable tells the drive module whether you're applying the rear brake (or front brake, if you also have a brake contact there). As long as the brake is applied, you can no longer accelerate. Included in the package is an 80cm long black cable with a white connector housing on one end and a flat receptacle (22) on the other. Connect the white connector to the white connector on the underside of the drive module and route the cable along the swing arm to the brake contact (24) on the rear wheel. Remove the original brake signal cable (23), plug in ours, and connect the original one to the extra flag that comes off our cable. We've also included a brake flag for you to screw on in case yours is too corroded or completely missing.
We included this function because there is no longer a clutch and therefore no way to disconnect the power transmission if an error occurs with the throttle response. For example, the throttle could get stuck in the open position. Such a scenario is no longer dangerous if you only have to apply the foot brake to cut off the engine's power.
4. Fittings
Now screw the speedometer cable onto the newly installed chain guard. The plastic thread for this is in the same place as on the previously removed combustion engine. This way, your original speedometer will simply continue to work.
Warning
Due to the use of the DUO speedometer gear, the displayed speed is approximately 9% higher than the actual speed. If you're driving at 60 km/h, the speedometer will show just under 66 km/h.
KR51
The KR51 controls (13) with button (17), charge indicator (15), and ignition switch (14) must be clamped to the handlebar cover plate using the two control brackets. To do this, carefully slide the controls over the plate facing the rider until they stop. Ensure that the controls are aligned straight and that the plastic set screws in the brackets have a full contact surface. Now screw in the set screws on the control brackets properly. Be careful not to overtighten and damage the Phillips head of the set screws.
Finally, thread the cable through the opening between the dashboard and the handlebar tube and route it to the underside of the drive module. There, you can connect it to the appropriate connector and secure the cable to the frame with cable ties. Arrows are printed on both connectors, indicating the correct orientation for connecting them.
KR51/1, KR51/2
Instead of the previously removed dashboard, you can now install the dashboard (13) supplied by us, which includes the button (17), charge level indicator (15), and ignition switch (14). To do this, first thread the cable through the opening where the dashboard panel belongs and route it to the underside of the drive module. There, you can connect it to the appropriate connector and secure the cable to the frame with cable ties. Arrows are printed on both connectors to indicate the correct orientation for connecting them.
5. Seat
Before you begin assembling the seat, you must equip the Schwalbe connecting panel with the components listed under Scope of Delivery -> Connecting Panel Rubber Parts. Glue the foam rubber strips to the underside of the connecting panel, as shown below. The foam rubber can also be wrapped around the front radius without creases if you apply it piece by piece and only press the entire thing firmly at the end. We didn't perform this installation ourselves, as the soft foam rubber would have deformed in the packaging and therefore wouldn't fit perfectly on your bike.
The subsequent seat installation is easier if the Schwalbe's hood is removed, as it's then much easier to access the nuts on the luggage rack's bolts. However, it can also be done without removing the hood, albeit with a bit of contortion.
KR51
Since the luggage rack holes in the body of the KR51 are offset by 2 cm compared to the KR51/1 and -/2, the position of the luggage rack must be adjusted before installing the seat. To do this, take the necessary components listed under Scope of Delivery > KR51 > Luggage Rack Adapter and have them ready. Now unscrew the luggage rack. Install the luggage rack as shown in the following illustration.
Now hook the mounting plate under the front of the hood and screw it onto the hood using the two upper luggage rack mounting points. Use the included 2x KR51 luggage rack spacers for this purpose. Locking the nuts is much easier when the hood is removed, but it also works with the hood installed if you have a long arm and a bit of patience.
Now screw the luggage rack into the protruding slots on the mounting plate. Attach the luggage rack to the original lower luggage rack mounts as shown below.
When installing the hood, you just need to make sure that the threaded rods on the mounting plate are inserted into the large holes at the front of the frame. First, loosely screw in all five screws that secure the hood to the vehicle and then tighten them all. Now you can screw one of the included large washers and self-locking nuts onto each threaded rod.
Caution
The seat does not have a passenger strap. Therefore, it is necessary that you have installed the jacking handle on the luggage rack so that your vehicle can continue to be used for passenger use.
KR51/2, KR51/1
Now you can screw the mounting plate onto the rear of the removed hood on the luggage rack before remounting it on the vehicle. To do this, first remove the two top screws of the luggage rack, if you haven't already done so. Now hook the mounting plate under the metal edge of the hood at the front and then screw the mounting plate back on using the jacking handle. The jacking handle must be screwed on with the handle facing backwards and downwards, otherwise there wouldn't be enough space to hook and unhook the seat. Locking the nuts is much easier when the hood is removed, but it also works with the hood installed if you have a long arm and a bit of patience.
When installing the hood, you only need to ensure that the threaded rods on the mounting plate are inserted into the large holes at the front of the frame. First, loosely screw in all five screws that secure the hood to the vehicle and then tighten them all. Now you can screw one of the included large washers and self-locking nuts onto each threaded rod.
Warning
The seat does not have a passenger strap. Therefore, you must have the jacking handle installed on the luggage rack so that your vehicle can continue to be used for passenger transport.
3. Throttle Cable
If you have an N1 carburetor, you can now screw the throttle cable, including the piston and carburetor cover, onto the drive module (12, page 15). If you had a different type of carburetor on your internal combustion engine, the carburetor cover and piston will not fit, and you will need to replace them. There are good explanatory videos on this topic on the Simson Werkstatt YouTube channel
Which notch the carburetor needle is mounted in, or whether it is missing altogether, no longer plays a role in the function of the Bowden cable sensor.
To ensure that the turning of the throttle grip is correctly converted into an electrical signal via the Bowden cable, it is important that you correctly insert the carburetor piston (22) into the designated cylinder (23) on the drive module. To do this, turn the carburetor piston as shown in the picture so that the groove (29) points towards the rear tire. There is a pin on the same side of the cylinder, which you can feel with your finger. The carburetor piston must then be inserted into the cylinder so that the groove is aligned over the pin. You can then screw the carburetor cover (21) onto the cylinder. Make sure the cap is screwed on far enough until no gap is visible between the cap and the stop.
Now it's time to adjust the throttle cable. There's an adjusting screw at the top of the throttle cable for this purpose. When the throttle is turned all the way forward, meaning no throttle is being applied, there should be just no play in the throttle cable housing. You can reduce the play by unscrewing the screw. Later, when the battery is connected, you can check your adjustment:
If you turn the ignition switch and nothing happens when you accelerate, then the screw is turned out too far. If you can accelerate and there's no play in the housing, then the adjustment is just right. You don't need to worry about the upper stop being incorrect and thus reducing your maximum power, because the stop when you apply full throttle is always the cap, which is always in the same position no matter how you adjust the throttle cable.
Caution
Please be sure to reinstall the rubber cover (20) on the carburetor cover. Otherwise, the sensor may be damaged in rain.
Make sure that your throttle cable and throttle grip have the least possible friction. The throttle grip should snap back completely from the fully open position under spring force alone. If this isn't the case, removing, cleaning, and re-greasing the throttle grip and/or replacing the Bowden cable may help. It's also possible that the rubber of the throttle grip is rubbing against the clamp. Moving the rubber outward on the removed throttle grip tube can help. You can find a video tutorial on throttle grip maintenance on the YouTube channel 2Radgeber the YouTube channel 2Radgeber
Finally, reinstall the engine tunnel.