Second Ride E-Clutch
Requirements
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Scope of Delivery
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Required Tools
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Before You Start the Conversion
The intended use of the above-mentioned accessory component is the installation according to this assembly manual, as well as its use in road traffic in accordance with the user manual. Please understand that in developing the conversion kit and accessories, we have based everything on the original condition of the mentioned Simson models. For conversions with parts that do not correspond to the original, or modifications of original parts due to accidents, wear, or intentional changes, we cannot guarantee that the conversion kit and accessories will work properly and safely, or that they can be installed at all. If you are unsure about your vehicle, please contact us.
This document "Accessory: E-Clutch Installation and User Manual" is provided by Second Ride GmbH and is to be understood as a supplement to the original manufacturer’s user manual. Both documents form a single unit. They belong together directly, with the explanations regarding the combustion engine being irrelevant.
Please read this document completely and carefully before starting the conversion and your first ride. Here you will find warnings and notes, information and advice, as well as emergency measures and other important remarks about your vehicle. Failure to follow the instructions may result in minor or severe injuries or even danger to life. Additionally, the performance of the vehicle may be restricted. Please also carefully read the warnings and notes next to the symbols, especially for the high-voltage section. Only in this way can proper installation of the conversion kit and accessories, as well as proper use of the vehicle, be ensured. Failure to comply with these warnings and instructions may lead to personal injury and/or vehicle damage.
All technical data and descriptions contained herein were up to date at the time of printing. However, since continuous improvement is one of our main goals, we reserve the right to make changes to the products at any time. If you notice any errors or omissions in this document, please make sure to report them in the Discord channel (see chapter “Useful Links”).
Installation
1. Installing the E-Clutch
Note
The Duo officially has no clutch, therefore you must purchase the clutch hand lever and assembly separately. Installation is significantly easier if the clutch lever is removed beforehand.
Start by inserting the two rectangular magnets into one of the filler pieces as shown in the picture. To do this, place the magnets in their final position on a ferromagnetic surface (e.g. a piece of sheet metal) and press the filler piece straight down from above.
For most hand levers, the metallic filler piece is used. Only for the old hand levers made of bent sheet metal is the plastic filler piece used. For this one, also press the nut into the hexagonal recess.
Now insert the metal filler piece into the slot of a standard hand lever. For an old hand lever, slide the plastic piece between the plates. Pay attention to orientation: the filler piece must lie with the openings facing upwards in the hand lever so that it is properly secured when the screw is tightened later.
Slightly bend open one loop of the spring (1), insert it as shown through the small hole in the spring retaining plate (2), and close the loop again. Take the M3 screw (3) and slide the parts onto the screw in the following order: first a washer (4), then the spring (1) (orientation as shown in the photo), the second washer (4), and finally the 8 mm sleeve (5). Screw the screw into the thread of the filler piece (6), with the spring pointing away from the lever (as shown by the red line), and then set aside the hand lever.
Take the reed sensor (7) and counter both nuts (8) at the threaded end. Slide the spring retaining plate (2) onto the reed sensor thread. Make sure the loop of the spring runs along the spring retaining plate (9). If the thread (officially for the cable tension adjustment screw) is about 13 mm long (10), slide the 5 mm sleeve (11) on. For the other assembly variant (12), omit this sleeve. Then screw the reed sensor into the thread.
Note
Due to the slot for the Bowden cable, the sensor can easily be screwed in crooked – this must be avoided. There may be paint or powder coating on the end of the thread. Clean the thread if necessary. Only grip the sensor by the countered nuts or the sensor body when screwing it in, not by the cable, as this may tear the cable out.
Screw the reed sensor in until the end of the thread, then loosen the countered nuts and tighten them against the spring retaining plate. Now reinstall the clutch lever, under spring tension, into its original position on the assembly and reinsert the clutch lever screw.
2. Installing the Wiring Harness
S50, S51, S70
Disconnect the white single-pin connector on the brake signal cable under the drive module. Connect the single-pin white connector of the black cable to the single-pin white brake signal cable connector. Open the left side cover of the heart box and remove the lower and upper hole covers. Lay the wiring harness into the heart box from below. Often all permanent 12V contacts are occupied. In this case, unplug the connector from contact no. 30 on the ignition switch and plug it onto the 6.3 mm female spade connector at the end of the blue cable. Then connect the spade connector to the permanent 12V contact.
Route the rest of the cable, whose end is equipped with a black round connector, through the upper hole in the center housing under the tank along the main frame up to the steering tube. Here, the cable end of the reed sensor should hang, which is routed along the handlebar through the openings in the upper fork clamp. Finally, connect the cable’s connector to that of the reed sensor. For adjustment of the “friction point,” see chapter “Adjusting the Friction Point.” Finally, close the heart box again.
KR51/2, KR51/1, KR51, SR4-2, SR4-4
Open the headlamp mask and remove the motor tunnel (for the Schwalbe) or the side panels (for the SR-4). Often all permanent 12V contacts are occupied. In this case, unplug the connector from contact no. 30 on the ignition switch and plug it onto the 6.3 mm female spade connector at the end of the blue cable. Then connect the spade connector to the permanent 12V contact.
Route the cable end with the black round connector out of the headlamp mask through one of the slots for the Bowden cables and wires and connect it with the reed sensor. Route the black cable from the bottom of the headlamp mask along the main frame back under the drive module. Disconnect the white single-pin connector on the brake signal cable under the drive module. Connect the single-pin white connector of the black cable to the single-pin white brake signal cable connector. For adjustment of the “friction point,” see chapter “Adjusting the Friction Point.” Finally, reattach the motor tunnel / side panels.
SR50, SR80
Remove the motor and electrical covers. Often all permanent 12V contacts are occupied. Unplug the connector from contact no. 49b on the flasher relay and plug it onto the 6.3 mm female spade connector at the end of the blue cable. Then connect the spade connector to contact no. 49b.
Disconnect the white single-pin connector on the brake signal cable under the drive module. Connect the single-pin white connector of the black cable to the single-pin white brake signal cable connector. Route the remaining cable (with black round connector) through the handlebar cover up to the reed sensor’s cable end. Finally, connect the cable connector and reed sensor. For adjustment of the “friction point,” see chapter “Adjusting the Friction Point.” Finally, close the motor and electrical covers again.
Duo 4, Duo 4-1, Duo 4-2
Often all permanent 12V contacts are occupied. In this case, unplug the connector from contact no. 30 on the ignition switch and plug it onto the 6.3 mm female spade connector at the end of the blue cable. Then connect the spade connector to the permanent 12V contact.
Connect the hollow connector to the reed sensor. Route the black cable along the steering column and the wiring harness under the motor. Disconnect the white single-pin connector on the brake signal cable under the drive module. Connect the single-pin white connector of the black cable to the single-pin white brake signal cable connector. For adjustment of the “friction point,” see chapter “Adjusting the Friction Point.”
Note
When fastening the cable with cable ties to the frame and handlebar, make sure the cable has enough play for steering movements.
It is recommended to keep the brake signal cable connected at the brake contact and store the end at a suitable place in the vehicle.
If for any reason the cable, reed sensor, or magnets of the E-Clutch are damaged/lost, the drive module will think you have activated motor shut-off and will prevent further driving.
In that case, you could reconnect the brake signal cable to the white single-pin connector under the drive module and continue driving.
Adjusting the “Friction Point”
Disconnect the 12V connection and the white single-pin connector of the wiring harness.
Loosen the nuts on the sensor thread, screw them back slightly and counter them (the sensor should not be fixed tightly). You can screw the sensor in and out of the thread using the countered nuts. If you rotate it several turns, disconnect the connector to avoid twisting the cable too much. To set the friction point, you can either proceed experimentally or use a multimeter.
Experimental
Screw the sensor all the way into the thread and reconnect the cables. If your vehicle is jacked up and the rear wheel is securely suspended, you can now give throttle and feel by pulling the clutch lever whether you like the friction point. By unscrewing the sensor, this friction point can be moved further forward, or by screwing it in further backward.
(Important: The sensor end must not protrude beyond the thread.)
Repeat the process as desired.
Multimeter
Connect the multimeter to the spade terminal and the white single-pin connector and set it to continuity test. For the following measurement, the connector must be reconnected. If the sensor is screwed in all the way, this represents the latest possible friction point. This can be determined with the multimeter. In the normal state, the multimeter should measure continuity (many devices beep here). When you slowly pull the clutch lever, the beeping will stop at a certain point – that is the friction point.
By unscrewing the sensor, this friction point can be moved further forward, or by screwing it in further backward.
(Important: The sensor end must not protrude beyond the thread.)
Once you have reached the desired setting, reconnect all cables as before.
Note
The distance between the magnets and the sensor tip is crucial for triggering the reed sensor. The magnet position in the hand lever is fixed, but there are differences between hand levers from different manufacturers (see image). The deeper the magnets sit in the hand lever, the earlier the friction point is reached.
If the sensor is already screwed all the way in, but you want a later friction point, you must use another hand lever in which the filler piece does not sit as deep.